Any crane is better than no crane, but the 12′ reach on the Hank truck is limiting.
And shelter from the storm. So long as the storm doesn’t swirl too hard…
As with most semi-retired iron, this piece needs some work. For starters, the air brakes aren’t working properly. One of the rear copper lines has been abraded by hanging hydraulic hoses, the quick release valve for the front axle is junk, and the spring brake release valve needs to be replaced. The swing pedal pivot is badly worn, along with all of the valve bank links. For the immediate future, I’m going to be churning butter…
One of the bucket cylinders needs to be repacked, but there is a spare available for loan.
The stabilizer lock valves seep, the hydraulic oil needs replacement, and the valve bank needs new seals. The carrier needs a new carburetor and alternator. The two speed axle has only one speed, and the muffler is shot.
If it was ready to go, it wouldn’t be any fun, now would it?
And of course, the hydraulics. Most of the hydraulic lines are dry-rotted and look like a hazard. Lot’s of hose on one of these machines…50 feet doesn’t get it.
Many years ago, I bought a big cylinder for use on a log splitter that I never got around to building. As luck would have it, it’s an exact match for this cylinder, and I was told it was recently rebuilt prior to my buying it.
The Barko bucket had no swing stop. Don’t know how that is suppose to work, but I’m not too keen on ripping lines off the stick. This shot shows the stop on the snubber, and the business end on the bucket.
In the future, I plan to change the valving to incorporate an active/indexing swing brake as used on the more modern Rotobec systems.
And yes, the sun has gone to bed. But I’ve got it on the run, and will press on.
At the first gig. The Detroit has the wrong type of engine governor, so I had to limp along at low throttle. Plenty of lift though.
Swapped in a cable-drive governor from a parts engine. Normally, the driver could twist a knob on the dash to raise the throttle as the job required. I made a small knob from a piece of aluminum hex stock and used a set-screw to attach to the cable stub. A little ungainly, but it works.